Velvet: The Smooth Operator 

As it’s still chilly in London we have had velvet on our minds. The word ‘velvet’ brings to mind opulence and luxury: smoking jackets in the deepest of purples (traditionally the colour of royalty, and so even more intrinsically linked to decadence). Famed for its sumptuous elegance, softness and lustre, velvet has a history as rich as the fabric itself. 

With humble beginnings in Kashmir, India, the fabric has been existed since the beginning of the fourteenth century. It became popular in Europe when the special double weaving process was adopted by Italian textile mills. From the striped breeches worn during the decorative Colonial period, to velvet collars on Victorian Frock Coats and later, on the Chesterfield Coat, velvet is a fabric with many facets and a never ending ability to adapt to current fashions. 

A pile fabric, two layers of material are woven simultaneously, which are then cut apart to produce the raised fibre effect. Velvet’s unique structure can be manipulated in several ways to achieve different aesthetic attributes. The different forms of velvet (density of pile, materials, silk, cotton, etc.) can be used to great effect, playing up or down the properties of the cloth as required. 

Thanks to its connotations with luxury, velvet has adorned everything from garments to accessories over the years. Velvet trimmings and paneling add rich details without the commitment of full-on finery. Over the years, velvet has enjoyed peaks and troughs in popularity, although now it seems to be playing a bit of a moment unlinked to faddish trends or Prince revivals.

 Words by Madeleine McIndoe

THE AMAZING, NEVER ENDING CHESTERFIELD COAT                 

Men’s fashion as we know it would not be the same without the Chesterfield Coat. This classic long tailored overcoat with the optional velvet collar has more than 100 years of history; and although it has evolved through the decades,  it still maintains the same air of Victorian style.

Although it is unclear when it was first tailored, it was in fact George Stanhope, the 6^th Earl of Chesterfield who wore it first. The coat was designed as an alternative to replace other types of garments such as the frock overcoat. During the early 1800s, no men would dare to take off their coat in public, the movement pioneered by the Earl of Chesterfield changed men’s fashion to a less decorative, and more comfortable style.

The Chesterfield coat was designed to be worn on top of other attire when outside, and taken off when inside. The advantages of the coat were its versatility, and its more comfortable shape. Since the mid 19^th century, the coat has been worn with city suits or to complement semi-formal dress. Because of its lack of seams and the coat’s shape makes it easy to wear and comfortable to the body.

The style of the coat has changed through the decades, with single or double breasted versions, not all of them with concealed buttons and several variations of fabric. The most popular materials are a heavy weight tweed, wool, cashmere, and camel hair with many blends and variations.  It is claimed that the classic version is made in heavy, plain charcoal wool fabric.

Due to the popularity of the Chesterfield coat during the 1800s, coats were imported to New Zealand, and soon after adapted with capes and others to fit female bodies and trends.

Today it is easy to find several different variations of the Chesterfield, from the country-rustic Chesterfield, to the Chesterfield jacket, which has a black velvet half collar.

Words by Maria Itziar